Charming Cornwall

Stress melts away as our Great Western Railway train rounds the bend and we spy clear blue waters lapping up on a sandy beach cove.  Now we know we have arrived in St. Ives, Cornwall.  Five years ago, we discovered this precious jewel situated on the southwestern tip of England.  We have returned to this little slice of heaven almost every year since then.

The train ride from Paddington Staion in London to St. Ives takes about six hours.  Cities dissolve into small towns and then beautiful lush green patchwork fields and farms as you journey toward Cornwall.  Friends recently flew into Newquay and then got a driver to St. Ives, to shorten the journey, but I think the train is an essential and enjoyable part of the journey.  Modern life, with its cars, technology and upsetting news fades away on the train ride and when we arrive we shut off our phones, avoid the tv, use our feet to get around and contemplate where we are right in this moment.  

The Little Leaf Guest House has been our home away from home every time we have visited St. Ives. Our innkeepers, Anthony and Tim, welcome us like family and make it easy for us to stay healthywith our plant based lifestyle. The breakfasts here are included in the room rate and fill us up for a day of wandering the meandering cobblestone streets and seaside paths.  Our morning meal is composed of creamy porridge made with almond milk, fresh fruit, homemade granola, crispy hash browns, vegan sausage, baked beans and a grilled portobello mushroom.  Eggs as well as french toast and waffles are also offered.  Our hosts even purchase gluten free, vegan digestives for us to go with the tea offered in every room.  Chatting with Anthony is fascinating as he has lived in Thaijland and continues to run a business there.  This personable host seems to never tire of giving us tips on where to pass our days and always makes time for us.  Tim has shared her native Thai rice with us and its a treat to talk with her too.

What I love about St. Ives is the small country town feeling I get when I walk along the ancient streets.  The shopkeepers are friendly and take the time to chat with you. This year we met a couple running a sushi stall type restaurant. She was French and he was from Tahiti.  They have moved to another place with their kids almost every year!  Now they are calling St. Ives home.  What a fascinating life they have had, so different from my own. 

The curving streets and passageways of St. Ives always lead you to an interesting shop or spectacular view or quaint tea room.  The tides here are very interesting to me.  I had never seen bobbing ships at high tide end up sitting right on the dry sea bottom at low tide only to be lifted up once again by the next high tide. 

Plants and flowers grow bountifully here due to the temperate climate and plentiful rainfall. I am envious at the kitchen gardens and baskets brimming with gerbera daisies, purple and yellow pansies, and a wide assortment of wildflowers.  The unique shops and the local bookstore call out to us as we walk by, as do the windows full of baked pasties and British treats that are new to our eyes, with names like sticky toffee pudding, figgyhobbin and fluffy meringues.  There are photo opportunities at every turn!  

Food is a bit of a challenge for us in St. Ives.  We did have some success at the Porthminster Beach Cafe which is perched right on the beach and has lovely sea views while you dine.  The talented chef prepared a thick creamy vegetable soup and a tart filled with nicely seasoned root veggies mounded into a pastry shell and surrounded by a crunchy cucumber salad.  The Blas Burgerworks boasts being among the top burger joints in the country.  We wanted to try their promising Beet Burger but the one hour wait put us off.  At Rajpoot we enjoyed some brilliant korma, a chickpea dish prepared with coconut milk, and served over rice.  Our final night we ended up playing trivia at Coastal Pub and Kitchen. Many of the questions related to England, but our educated guesses proved successful.  We ended up performing better than the British couple at our table while munching on crisp snap peas, kale and lentils.  So we managed to find enough vegan food to get by, but it would be nice if a vegan restaurant opened in St. Ives.

Now for a word regarding travel companions.  When you do journey away from home, it is important to choose wisely and carefully when you decide who to take with you.  Ask yourself these questions about any potential candidate.  Is the person an early riser or a nightowl?  Is the person extravagant with money or a penny pincher?  Does the person prefer hostels or luxurious hotels or quaint 100 year old bed and breakfasts?  Is the person someone who has “diarrhea of the mouth” and won’t even be quiet when you ask them or does the person hardly utter a word?  Is the person a daredevil or a worrywart?  Does the person eat the same way you do so you will be choosing meals that complement both of you?   Is the person a shopper, a moocher, a hiker or the opposite?  Does the person snore or like the room hot when you prefer it cooler?  After you have asked yourself and the potential travel partner these difficult questions, take a trial run. Go away for a few days locally to see how it turns out.  All of this prep will save you lots of heartache in the end.  It is better than going away with someone for two weeks and ending up not speaking to each other because you had certain expectations that your partner can’t meet.  Also, plan on compromising.  You won’t always want to spend time looking at old cars and looking at electronics and he/she won’t always want to wait while you try on dresses or look at jewelry, but both of you must bend to make it work.  Traveling is a lot of fun under the right circumstances with a partner who is a good match.