Japan Land of the Rising Sun

Japan, Land of the Midnight Sun

Our next macro adventure begins in Tokyo, Japan. For the next two weeks we will be immersed in Japanese exotic culture, unique food and rich history.  For this journey, I have chosen a guided tour to make our traveling easier as this is our first visit to Japan and I thought the different language and finding our way around might prove problematic.  

For our first two days we are on our own in Tokyo.  I am writing this blog at 2 am as this is when I am waking up after a 12 hour flight and a 12 hour time difference. Hopefully this will improve as the days pass.

I have already made several observations. As it turns out, the challenges I feared before arriving here  have proven easy to surmount.  Between google translate, my partner KO’s aptitude for simple Japanese, and the pictures on all the Japanese menus, we have been able to navigate the complicated subway lines, order our food easily and even figure out how to purchase organic, vegan makeup with little stress.

Yesterday we decided to visit the Shibuya district.  A lovely stroll along a tree lined pedestrian only area speckled with colorful flowers, led us to the subway station and a short ride to this busy area.  Shibuya is a shopping district known for the Scramble.  The Scramble is not a breakfast dish, but rather a four way crosswalk where a multitude of humans cross the street at the same moment!  Viewed from a Starbucks above the street, it is hard to believe this feat is achieved with noone getting plowed down!  In my life, I have never seen so many people in one spot at one time, even in New York City.  Near the Scramble Crossing,  we enjoy a fascinating visit to one of the basement food halls, Tokyo Food Show.  Found in the lowest level of department stores, these food meccas spread out with a colorful array of delicacies.  A myriad of booths brim with freshly prepared salads, crispy dumplings, home made chunky noodles, golden vegetable tempuras, carefully created sweet confections, brightly colored fresh fruit and vegetables and jarred umeboshi plums and pickled daikon.  I carry with me a card that details in Japanese that I do not consume anything that contains dairy, fish, meat, chicken or egg. I bravely hand my card to each vendor and each vendor shakes his head from side to side to indicate that everything here includes pork or milk or other non vegan products.  I settle for a simple green salad.  My experience is not dimmed by the fact that I can not sample the foods because this market is a true example of epicurean art and I am thrilled to have the chance to see it.

Our own plant based culinary adventure always starts at home where we scour Happycow.com to choose our vegan restaurants and schedule them into each location.  Once we arrive, it is like following a treasure map to our wonderful discoveries. Our first breakfast is experienced in a traditional quick Japanese restaurant.  My macrobiotic background is proving invaluable here in Japan.  As I am already quite familiar with natto( fermented beans), Kinpira, nishime, miso soup with wakame, and various fermented foods that make up the Japanese diet, I am not confused by the items on my plate and understand the nutritional benefits of all of them.  Thank you Michio Kushi!  You will not find a single overweight person walking these streets and most of the population is quite slim! A combination of healthy food, not overeating and walking everywhere contributes to this healthy lifestyle.  Our first breakfast consists of natto, which we mix with mustard and scallions and eat with white rice, miso soup with wakame and a fermented cabbage salad.    Brown rice used to be fed to the poor and still hasnt caught on here.  Miso soup in Japan is a mainstay, but in most restaurants it is prepared with fish stock.  Vegan restaurants prepare it with veggie stock. Either way, miso is good for your gut and a tummy tamer.  The total price for our breakfast...$4!

Tucked away in a tiny alley that took us an hour to find, is Hanoda Rosso , an organic vegan macrobiotic jewel.  I have been hoping to try out the traditional Japanese curry KO has been talking about for nine years, but it is usually prepared with beef or chicken.  My vegan version is filled with vegetables covered in a mildly spiced black gravy which blankets my rice.  It is delicious!  KO chooses a  “chicken” croquette dish, made of seitan and gently fried golden brown. It is accompanied by crispy lotus root slivers and a delicious miso soup which has just the right amount of salty flavor.  We really enjoy this spot off the main drag.

Walking along the streets of Tokyo is an amazing visual treat.  Since I am a blond and brown haired, blue eyed Caucasian, I am feeling quite the minority among the black haired, brown eyed beautiful Japanese people.  The differences don’t stop there.  The Japanese men and women have a real flair for fashion!   The men are neatly dressed in nicely tailored slacks with formal button down shirts and suit jackets while the petite women look so classic in flowing skirts or floral dresses.  On their feet are Doc Martens or shiny black chunky platform shoes.   Often we see younger girls in matching school uniforms or “Little Bo Peep” dresses with frilly slips underneath.  Their hair is done up in curls and  lacy bows.  It seems the Japanese are making a statement of individuality and uniqueness through their fashion. You do not see any t shirts and jeans.  We also observe that it is very clean here.  We see no litter on the ground and street cleaners are hand sweeping the streets.  Everyone here greets you as you enter their shops, but my friendly smile is never returned on our walk.  The people are very helpful, even leaving their stores to lead us two blocks away to a desired destination!   

I am so pleased we are having this opportunity to be among the quiet, helpful Japanese people and to explore this city before we join our tour tomorrow evening!